#LFW: Riccardo Tisci Loosens Up The Burberry Trench

Riccardo Tisci, with the help of Irina Shayk and Jourdan Dunn, introduced a refreshing new “Kingdom” collection for his debut with Burberry.  Tisci, the Italian designer, stuck to his Parisian instinct from Givenchy and brought a much more playful and modern luxury vibe to the British fashion house.

The scene was set in a refurbished post office warehouse in Nine Elms, Vauxhall – right between the famous flower market and US embassy. Paying homage to the South West postcode by printing “SW11” on some of the trenches, Brexit was definitely on his mind, as red passports hung around the model’s necks.

Switching up the traditional staple trench coat, Tisci added alligator leathers, feminine silhouettes, pussy bows, silk scarves, belts and Hermes orange to the mix. While a tad different to my Grandma’s trench, with Werther’s Originals in every pocket, he did take inspiration from “Burberrys” campaigns over the years – before the S was cut from branding. The modesty of the 50s-80s era was apparent in the elongated skirts and high waisted trousers.

You may remember Tisci from his previous work at Givenchy, especially as designer for Jay and Ye’s ‘Watch The Throne’ Tour and he was most likely the inspiration behind ‘N*ggas in Paris’, as he frequently invited both rappers out for fittings. That era was excessive leathers, shock-factor graphic designs (sharks, dogs, tigers), heavy gold Cuban links, Roman skirts, and borderline blasphemous religious inspiration – pure rapper drip.

Of course, we won’t be seeing that at Burberry. But, Tisci definitely did push the envelope by adding a new youthful touches, cuts, graphics and finishes at Monday’s show. From a trench coat bodice, to a menswear pinstripe tracksuit. The highlight was a “WHY DID THEY KILL BAMBI” emblazoned on a deer graphic print shirt. As for the cow skirt – I’m guessing he’s watched Doja Cat’s MOOO! a few too many times. Utility bags, rain jackets and pastel double-breasted suits were not forgotten, just as we’ve also seen at Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton showcase.

Tisci is definitely giving a glimpse of what he has in store for the heritage British flagship Burberry. We can see his signature, but Burberry hasn’t lost it’s Brit – recognising it is a ‘Kingdom’, one which he is now has the reins of.